Have you read a good book lateÂly? A cookbook?
For many of us, this is the kind of book we read more often than not. SomeÂtimes on a daiÂly basis. But, in my expeÂriÂence, we rarely talk about them as books, how they are writÂten, or if they are indeed readÂable. Who are the good writÂers of cookÂbooks? To be sure, it is the recipes that are imporÂtant. Is it imporÂtant if they are writÂten about well?
As the one who does the cookÂing in my houseÂhold and enjoys it, I read cookÂbooks. SomeÂtimes my bedÂtime readÂing will be about what I will cook the next day, espeÂcialÂly if it’s to be a gathÂerÂing of friends. As I write this, I know that in a couÂple of days my adult son and his girlÂfriend are comÂing for dinner.
What shall I cook? What cookÂbook shall I turn to? Who likes what? Who won’t eat what? Go to an old known favorite? Be daring?
Over my years, cookÂbooks have radÂiÂcalÂly changed. Recall the old Good HouseÂkeepÂing cookÂbook, and you’ll rememÂber that it simÂply proÂvidÂed recipes. No doubt, good ones. But pick up the recentÂly pubÂlished A Very ChiÂnese CookÂbook by Kevin and JefÂfrey Pang, and besides the recipes, you’ll find pages of inforÂmal inforÂmaÂtion about the culÂture of ChiÂnese food, ingreÂdiÂents, and ways of eatÂing, as well as perÂsonÂal stoÂries about the writÂers, who are father and son.
Also, in cookÂbooks these days, there are phoÂtographs. Lots of them. EnticÂing! It’s become very comÂmon. You even see credÂits for “Food Stylists.”
(In that conÂtext, I once learned that plasÂter of Paris (hardÂened) is a good subÂstiÂtute for phoÂtographed whipped cream — but, please, only in photos.)
Turn to one of Ina Garten’s books (the “BareÂfoot ConÂtesÂsa”) and you’ll find all kinds of engagÂing chat about the social side of eatÂing a meal. ConÂsidÂer BarÂbara Kafka’s VegÂetable Love and you’ll disÂcovÂer more about indiÂvidÂual vegÂetaÂbles than you ever thought it was posÂsiÂble to know. One of my favorite cookÂbooks is On Spice: Advice, WisÂdom, and HisÂtoÂry with a Grain of SaltiÂness. By Gaitlin PenÂzeyÂMoog. FasÂciÂnatÂing.
Even online recipes have good introÂducÂtions by cooks. I’m parÂtial to the New York Times cookÂing secÂtion, where you’ll find good writÂing by Sam Sifton and MelisÂsa Clark — and I think — good recipes.
There is a real skill in food writÂing: deep explaÂnaÂtions of the food, its oriÂgins, culÂture, and techÂniques, as well as the prep. To be sure, it is highÂly descripÂtive writÂing, but it often tries to sugÂgest the expeÂriÂence of eatÂing the food. If ever there were a book of promisÂes, a cookÂbook must fit the bill.
To be clear, good writÂing does not ensure a good recipe. No more than a good recipe brings on good writÂing. But when you have both, the pleaÂsure is ampliÂfied — when you read and when you eat.
Now, think about the last novÂel you read. SureÂly the (human) charÂacÂters must have eatÂen. Yet, genÂerÂalÂly speakÂing, very litÂtle attenÂtion is paid to the food. I have been guilty of that in my writÂing. EatÂing is just assumed.
The Mad HatÂter’s Tea ParÂty from Alice in WonÂderÂland by Lewis CarÂroll. IllusÂtraÂtion by John TenÂniel. (in the pubÂlic domain)
In novÂels, now and again, there is a gathÂerÂing around food. (Do conÂsidÂer the tea parÂty in Alice in WonÂderÂland!) Or a dinÂner is part of the plot. Rarely is there much focus on what is eatÂen. That said, in mysÂterÂies, eatÂing poiÂson is often what is dished up. Still, as we all know, what we eat, how we eat, and even when we eat, can tell us much about an individual’s character.
So, I invite my readÂers to share the title of a work of ficÂtion in which food has a vital and descripÂtive part. Or the best-writÂten cookÂbook you know.
We’ll eat your words.
3 thoughts on “Read a Good Cookbook Lately?”
I love LauÂrie ColÂwin’s cook books HOME COOKING and MORE HOME COOKING. And all of MarÂiÂon CunÂningÂham’s cookbooks.
Emily
The last book I finÂished was SalÂly, Army DietitÂian (1944) by May WorÂthingÂton Eells. My curÂrent interÂest is chilÂdren’s and YA career ficÂtion, books with titles like CherÂry Ames, StuÂdent Nurse and Charles HampÂton, Research Chemist. SalÂly works at an Army hosÂpiÂtal in SouthÂern CalÂiÂforÂnia. Here is the menu for ChristÂmas dinner:
Fruit cockÂtail, conÂsomme with butÂter thins, celÂery, olives, burr gherkins, roast turkey, apple and raisin dressÂing, giblet gravy, whipped potaÂtoes, canÂdied sweet potaÂtoes, escalÂloped corn, frostÂed peas, letÂtuce and tomaÂto salÂad, cranÂberÂry sauce, ice cream with melÂba sauce, chocoÂlate cake, mince pie, pumpÂkin pie, cofÂfee, milk, nuts, raisins, and canÂdy. And because it was the 40s, it ends with cigarettes!
Ruth ReichÂl’s books– TenÂder to the Bone and sevÂerÂal othÂers. I have a weakÂness for Cook’s IllusÂtratÂed MagÂaÂzines — imagÂine my luck at findÂing a pile for 50 cents each at a charÂiÂty shop. I love readÂing oldÂer magÂaÂzines and cookÂbooks… from the 1960s backÂwards (from the 1920s — 1940s are my favorites). Julia Child’s biogÂraÂphy was also a great read as well as her any of her cookÂbooks. I, too, often read cookÂbooks at bedÂtime. I have explained to many peoÂple that each recipe is a very short stoÂry. List of charÂacÂters (ingreÂdiÂents) and how and when each eleÂment is added. Is the size of the pan the plot? And how it is cooked– the locaÂtion of the stoÂry? Good recipes, good cookÂing and good stoÂries have a lot in common.….:)